Common Flower Collage.

The 3D woven work “Common Flower Collage” is inspired by ordinary flower patterns often used in fast fashion. These widespread everyday types of flowers depict a perception of safety and instil a sense of nostalgic simplicity and familiarity, as almost everyone has owned a garment with these kinds of patterns at some point. Reflecting on the ubiquitous nature of these flower patterns and their connection to personal memories and comfort.

The textiles mimic a patchwork collage and are jacquard woven as a single 2D textile in a multiple layering system, after weaving these layers are cut open to unfold in an intrinsic 3D collage.

WEEEF x Kelly Konings.

For this special collaboration a whole-garment woven football jersey was created. Mimicking a well known garment archetype that usually is not made in a woven fabric. Resulting in a wearable whole-garment woven item, whole-garment weaving is a weaving technique where the entire garment is woven into one piece. Meaning the side seams, embroidery details and so on are all woven in one go. After weaving the garments are carefully washed, cut, and ready to be worn.

Inspired by the symbolic use of graphics and colours in football jerseys, the top and bag show an infinity symbol and a globe, that express how simplified production chains and the local production of textiles and garments can play an important role in regenerative and circular design, beyond generations! 

The items are made in 100% cotton with the highest standard of detail and material by weaving mill EE Exclusives, the first OEKO-TEX STeP certificated textile company in the Netherlands.

Mirage of dress.

The process of weaving is an entangled combination of emotion and reason, as textiles are one of the first tactile memories we have. Holding the power to reconnect with times long gone and memories forgotten. Memories of washed-out flower dresses, the soft fraying of a shirt’s collar, the pilling of the knitted sweater my grandmother made, the worn-out elbows on the tweed coat stuffed away in the attic. All these touches of the hand, lost in time.

Whole-garment woven cowboy boots in deadstock linen from damask weaving mill ‘Klässbols Linneväveri’, homegrown linen from ‘The Linen Project’ and a soft wool on a cotton warp. Inspired by a peony patterned dress my grandmother used to wear.

Whole-garment woven blazer-blanket in deadstock linen from damask weaving mill ‘Klässbols Linneväveri’, homegrown linen from ‘The Linen Project’ and a soft wool on a cotton warp.

Jacquard woven textiles drawing from personal sentimental memorabilia of garments, blankets and curtains that ones were, holding the power to transgress into a collective questioning of the current relationship we have with the textiles and clothing that surround us. Opening up a discussion on how to care for our memories embedded in the fibres and yarns instead of discarding them lovelessly.

Whole-garment woven doily lace sweater, jacquard woven with local Swedish wool from ‘Ullkontoret’.

Textiles jacquard woven with local yarns such as wool that has been carefully collected at different farms around Sweden, washed and processed on the island of  Gotland by ‘Ullkontoret’. Proposing a new and holistic way of designing and producing textiles and garments locally.

Jacquard woven brocade textile in wool with linen and a digital weaving sketch.

Jacquard woven structure in wool with cotton and linen floats on a cotton warp.

Hybrid forms of dressing.

In the current state of the textile and fashion industry, these two are mostly designed and produced in completely separate systems. Only meeting in the final outcome of a garment. Leaving many sustainable and aesthetic textile design possibilities unused, but also increasing textile waste by underutilising material characteristics and by producing unwanted textiles.

 In this collection, 2D jacquard woven textiles were crafted that hold the possibility to be worn as 3D garments. Draped and folded onto the body, these whole-garment woven textiles urge the viewer to rethink the interdependent relationship between a textile and a garment.

The structure of the weave, the jacquard patterns, the yarns and colours have the ability to link the textile to the garment, materialising the interdependency of the two. The woven textiles can be transformed from a 2D
textile into a 3D garment and vice versa.

For example, colour gradients that look like a worn-out effect have been woven into the textile, but also the labelling, stitch details, side seams, collars, sleeves and pockets have been woven directly into the textile.

Textiles that are expressing garment archetypes such as jeans, the knitted sweater or a blazer in hybrid forms of dressing.

Jacquard woven structure in local Swedish wool on a cotton warp, mimicking a cable knitted sweater and socks.

The yarns used in this collection are mostly linen and wool and a mix of deadstock yarns from the Swedish textile industry. Such as linen from the damast weaving mill Klässbols and tufting wool that is normally used for rugs from Kasthall. Besides that, textiles were made with local wool that has been carefully collected at farms around Sweden and washed and processed in Gotland by Ullkontoret. Proposing a new and holistic way of designing and producing textiles and garments locally.

Jacquard woven twill structures in deadstock linen and indigo cotton on a cotton warp.

Deadstock linen in different hues of blue mimicking a worn out denim jacket and jeans, jacquard woven in a multi-layering system to create destroy details such as holes and worn out edges.

The woven textiles can be transformed from a 2D textile into a 3D garment and vice versa. Weaving in pocket, stitch lines and button holes to create the illusion of a denim jacket.

The structure of the weave, the jacquard patterns, the yarns and colours have the ability to link the textile to the garment.

Icons Re/Outfitted by The Visionary Lab x Kelly Konings.

Recomposed VITRA Eames Lounge Chair, from several pre-used chairs re-outfitted with a jacquard woven denim textile from deadstock Levi’s® yarns. Inspired by jeans archetype elements such as a worn out, faded look with destroy and bleach elements all woven simultaneously in a layered weaving construction. Creating the illusion of holes using an innovative 2D weaving technique with a 3D effect, resulting in a distressed look in an organic gradient twill structure from blue to almost white without the need for bleaching – a testament to the transformative power of modern weaving.