Notes on weaving

Stop designing waste garments, start engineering textiles

Weaving can be traced back to ancient times as one of the most primary methods of making textiles and has remained almost unchanged into modern times.

Weaving involves a method of interlacing a set of vertical threads (warp threads) and horizontal threads (weft threads) rectangularly at an angle of 90 degrees. The weaver carefully plans how these two sets of threads cross each other into different weaving bindings. Distinguishing three fundamental binding constructions that all woven textiles are derived from, the plain weave, the twill weave and the satin weave.

The woven binding constructions are equally important elements on the outcome of the textile as the fibres or yarn the textile is made from. This means that a soft yarn can be woven into a stiff material and a coarse yarn can be woven into a soft and drapey textile, all due to the binding construction. However, a soft and hairy yarn can make the handfeel of a stiff fabric feel much softer, and a textured yarn can make a drapey textile feel like sand paper. This unique set of combinations between the fibre or yarn and the weaving binding make up for endless possibilities of what a textile could be.

Jacquard weaving is the craft of weaving with an individualised warp thread control. Invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1804, the jacquard mechanism replaced traditional shaft weaving with a jacquard harness. Rather than lifting warp threads in fixed, repeating groups across a shaft, a jacquard system can lift every single warp thread independently. This shift transformed the loom into an early computing device, capable of rendering complex patterns, multi-layered constructions, and large structural variations. By coding yarns digitally with ones and zeros, the loom is programmed to either lift or lower threads, bridging the gap between artisanal craft and industrial manufacturing.

jacquard weaving denim jeans textile design by Kelly Konings

Weave with us

We create custom jacquard woven textiles and other weaving projects, designed and programmed at our studio in Sweden. Want to know more?

Send us an email at [email protected]